in other words, nothing bad will happen if i use this product about 2-3 hours a day, every day without washing my hands right? if yes, for example then, not that im looking forward to doing it but, i could spread this caulk all over me for the rest of the week and nothing bad is going to happen. when i say bad. i mean not required to go to the doctor or worse.Is it bad if i use ';all-purpose acrylic latex caulk'; for construction daily without washing my hands?
Acrylic/latex caulk will not hurt your skin if that's what you are asking. I wouldnt suggest that you rub it into your eyes, or swallow it tho, lol. -- I'll amend this to add -- it won't hurt as long as you're not allergic to latex.... most people aren't, but for those that are, they need to be careful handling it.
And to prevent the spread of germs and bacteria, you REALLY should be washing your hands often, lol.... you can even get 'waterless' soaps, like Germ-X, or Goop, etc, where you don't need any water, and they clean pretty well. I keep a container in my service vehicle so I can clean up, even when water is not available on site. (I also keep a bottle or two of water on hand)
Have FunIs it bad if i use ';all-purpose acrylic latex caulk'; for construction daily without washing my hands?
I don't get it... Are you saying that you are thinking of working on a job-site day in and day out, and not wash your hands at all? Yes, that would be bad. If you do not get sick from germs, you probably will ingest some chemicals and get sick that way...
If you are asking about allergic reaction to the caulking - no idea. That depends on the caulking, you, and any other things you might have touched. For example, most people are not allergic to Latex. They are allergic to the trace chemicals that are on the inside of the glove from the making and are then taped against the hand...
If you are using caulking 2-3 hours a day invest in some of the blue Latex Safegrip gloves by MicroFlex
If you ever decide to wash your hands use the ';orange'; soap that you can get at auto-parts stores, the stuff with the grit, and then wash with normal soap...
As long as you are not allergic to latex, I see no problem with its daily use. My painter's workers use this product daily and have never had a negative reaction.
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
Where do I go to learn how to make latex masks?
check out the link below.Where do I go to learn how to make latex masks?
Rhino's link is great, and online info is as cheap as it gets. Honestly, moldmaking and latex masks are going to get you in for more than $50 if you really get into it.
Did you just want online resources or classes to go to? If you want to go in person, look for people that will take free help. That way you might get some discards or keep a copy to paint on your own afterward. Check any local maskmaker shops or special effects artists or prop makers.
For starters, add youtube to your list of places to look for how-to info. BTW, if you get interested in the life-casting, take tons of precautions, and learn as much as you can. My best advice it to assist someone or have an experienced person to talk to. It's easy enough to get started, but there's certain things to know, and if you don't, it could get unhealthy or dangerous.Where do I go to learn how to make latex masks?
Nice link rhino.
Rhino's link is great, and online info is as cheap as it gets. Honestly, moldmaking and latex masks are going to get you in for more than $50 if you really get into it.
Did you just want online resources or classes to go to? If you want to go in person, look for people that will take free help. That way you might get some discards or keep a copy to paint on your own afterward. Check any local maskmaker shops or special effects artists or prop makers.
For starters, add youtube to your list of places to look for how-to info. BTW, if you get interested in the life-casting, take tons of precautions, and learn as much as you can. My best advice it to assist someone or have an experienced person to talk to. It's easy enough to get started, but there's certain things to know, and if you don't, it could get unhealthy or dangerous.Where do I go to learn how to make latex masks?
Nice link rhino.
What is the best way to remove wall paint, latex, from carpet?
How much paint is it? If it's a big spot, there's probably not much you can do with it. If they are relatively small spots -- like drips while painting -- and if the carpet has a little pile to it, you can sometimes trim off the ends of the pile with good scissors and the paint with it.What is the best way to remove wall paint, latex, from carpet?
If it hasn't dried too long, you may try soap and water clean up. Otherwise just cut deep individual pieces out of it. Good luck.What is the best way to remove wall paint, latex, from carpet?
Try cleaning with a carpet steamer and use the hottest water out of your hot water tank as possible.
If it hasn't dried too long, you may try soap and water clean up. Otherwise just cut deep individual pieces out of it. Good luck.What is the best way to remove wall paint, latex, from carpet?
Try cleaning with a carpet steamer and use the hottest water out of your hot water tank as possible.
What is the difference between rubber nipples and latex nipples?
On my first daughter, I used only silicone nipples, they virtually never wear out. However my second born won't hear of anything like silicone. She seems to only want rubber. When I went shopping for rubber nipples, I found that they are nearly impossible to come across. Virtually nonexistant on store shelves, even Babies R Us. So, since the latex nipples look almost exactly the same, I figured they must be the same thing.
Well the baby knew I was wrong before I did! She won't take the latex nipples at all.
So, what is the difference between rubber and latex nipples, and why do the rubber ones swell up so much? Is it because I've been soaking them in dish water too long?
Thanks.What is the difference between rubber nipples and latex nipples?
The latex ones are a lot harder. I used the rubber on both my kids, but it was hard to find them by the time I weened my youngest. She hated the latex and if you try to squish them they are a lot harder. That may be why rubber swells more and why she likes them better because they are more pliable. Sometimes grocery or drug stores still have the rubber, you will pay more of course, but I went to those and stocked up when I could find them.What is the difference between rubber nipples and latex nipples?
Rubber and latex are one and the same..
Latex IS rubber. They just started calling it by its actual composition, which is latex. Just like condoms.
Well the baby knew I was wrong before I did! She won't take the latex nipples at all.
So, what is the difference between rubber and latex nipples, and why do the rubber ones swell up so much? Is it because I've been soaking them in dish water too long?
Thanks.What is the difference between rubber nipples and latex nipples?
The latex ones are a lot harder. I used the rubber on both my kids, but it was hard to find them by the time I weened my youngest. She hated the latex and if you try to squish them they are a lot harder. That may be why rubber swells more and why she likes them better because they are more pliable. Sometimes grocery or drug stores still have the rubber, you will pay more of course, but I went to those and stocked up when I could find them.What is the difference between rubber nipples and latex nipples?
Rubber and latex are one and the same..
Latex IS rubber. They just started calling it by its actual composition, which is latex. Just like condoms.
How do I know the Nuk size 3 latex pacifiers will be okay?
My baby girl is 17 months old and she is using the Gerber size 2 NUK silicone pacifiers. When she turns 18 months next month, I am planning on getting her the Gerber size 3 NUK pacifiers which are for ages 18 months to 3 years. However, they do not make the size 3 ones in silicone, they only make them in latex. I have heard that some people are allergic to latex. So how do I know that they will be okay for my baby. Or should I just keep on using the size 2 silicone ones?How do I know the Nuk size 3 latex pacifiers will be okay?
Editing ... because I just was a bit hypocritical. I get snarly when people are all ';Oh, you're horrible if you give your child X before age Y, they'll get an allergy and it'll be your fault!'; and then I went and did it to you over latex! The chances of a latex allergy are slim, slim, slim. Really, don't stress it. As I noted below, until recently all pacis were latex. Relax. You cannot live your life (or hers) avoiding every potential allergen. I would strongly suggest though that if she sucks on it all day and all night you try to wean her of this, limit her exposure. OR, try another brand. The size change isn't something she'll not notice, so try a different style at the same time?
--------------------------------------鈥?br>
(here's my original answer)
I would say keep using the size 2s and wean her off of them.
I don't suggest this because I have anything against pacis, or because I think she could be allergic to latex. She probably isn't. Some people are allergic to dogs, to milk, to peanuts, to carrots, to ... well, anything under the sun. Just because 'some people are allergic' isn't really a good reason to avoid something.
I say this because latex allergies are naaaasty. I don't mean to be an alarmist, but they develop and grow. Studies have clearly shown that even in people with no allergy, constant exposure can lead to it. Now, keep in mind that until recently silicone wasn't used for pacis and bottles. Just latex. And latex allergies amongst children weren't common and are still only common in kids who are frequently hospitalized. However, it is a growing concern amongst adults. So, I say, why start her down that road? Steer clear of latex, I suggest. It's not like other allergies - if you eat strawberries every day for a year you won't become allergic to strawberries. But latex exposure? You've got a good chance of it.How do I know the Nuk size 3 latex pacifiers will be okay?
The chance she is allergic to the latex is slim...
But you could also consider weaning her off of the pacifiers... and then you wouldn't have to worry about it either way.
Editing ... because I just was a bit hypocritical. I get snarly when people are all ';Oh, you're horrible if you give your child X before age Y, they'll get an allergy and it'll be your fault!'; and then I went and did it to you over latex! The chances of a latex allergy are slim, slim, slim. Really, don't stress it. As I noted below, until recently all pacis were latex. Relax. You cannot live your life (or hers) avoiding every potential allergen. I would strongly suggest though that if she sucks on it all day and all night you try to wean her of this, limit her exposure. OR, try another brand. The size change isn't something she'll not notice, so try a different style at the same time?
--------------------------------------鈥?br>
(here's my original answer)
I would say keep using the size 2s and wean her off of them.
I don't suggest this because I have anything against pacis, or because I think she could be allergic to latex. She probably isn't. Some people are allergic to dogs, to milk, to peanuts, to carrots, to ... well, anything under the sun. Just because 'some people are allergic' isn't really a good reason to avoid something.
I say this because latex allergies are naaaasty. I don't mean to be an alarmist, but they develop and grow. Studies have clearly shown that even in people with no allergy, constant exposure can lead to it. Now, keep in mind that until recently silicone wasn't used for pacis and bottles. Just latex. And latex allergies amongst children weren't common and are still only common in kids who are frequently hospitalized. However, it is a growing concern amongst adults. So, I say, why start her down that road? Steer clear of latex, I suggest. It's not like other allergies - if you eat strawberries every day for a year you won't become allergic to strawberries. But latex exposure? You've got a good chance of it.How do I know the Nuk size 3 latex pacifiers will be okay?
The chance she is allergic to the latex is slim...
But you could also consider weaning her off of the pacifiers... and then you wouldn't have to worry about it either way.
How to deal with oil-based primer and latex color paint?
I'm painting the interior of my house. Without knowing the difference between oil-based and latex paint, I purchased oil-based primer, and primed a hallway and a room. My wife chose the walls' paint color and purchased a latex-based paint.
Is it OK to put interior latex paint on top of interior oil-based primer?
Or should we sand the walls, and start over with a latex-based primer?
It appears to be more difficult to get the color we want in oil-based, and web research seems to indicate that oil-based primer was a bad choice for vast regions of interior wall.How to deal with oil-based primer and latex color paint?
i am a painting contractor of luxury homes and yes you can paint latex over the oil primer...its the other way around you cant do....oil over latexHow to deal with oil-based primer and latex color paint?
Don't mix together.
Its a bad idea to attempt it, I've heard paint companies say it works and seen it work a few times but normally the latex peels right off. there's no reason to use oil base primer or paint unless its for expensive trim work or cabinets and even then your better of using a lacquer base primer that is sand able. you can use a alcohol or solvent based primer/sealer (such as kilz)over the oil primer and that should do the trick.
Oil base is pigment suspend in an oil based (or oil based solvent)liquid.
Latex is pigment suspend in water with latex (a form of rubber) to help it adhere.
water and oil dont mix well.
I don't see why it wouldn't work, in fact I think I've seen it done on ';This Old House.'; If there is problem because the latex doesn't stick to the oil, you can paint the area over with a product called liquid sandpaper.
the worst scenario
is oil over latex paint !
anyway , sand , skim coat the walls ,
and prime in latex,
and finish in latex.
and chalk it up to life experience.
and move on.
good luck.internet explorer
Is it OK to put interior latex paint on top of interior oil-based primer?
Or should we sand the walls, and start over with a latex-based primer?
It appears to be more difficult to get the color we want in oil-based, and web research seems to indicate that oil-based primer was a bad choice for vast regions of interior wall.How to deal with oil-based primer and latex color paint?
i am a painting contractor of luxury homes and yes you can paint latex over the oil primer...its the other way around you cant do....oil over latexHow to deal with oil-based primer and latex color paint?
Don't mix together.
Its a bad idea to attempt it, I've heard paint companies say it works and seen it work a few times but normally the latex peels right off. there's no reason to use oil base primer or paint unless its for expensive trim work or cabinets and even then your better of using a lacquer base primer that is sand able. you can use a alcohol or solvent based primer/sealer (such as kilz)over the oil primer and that should do the trick.
Oil base is pigment suspend in an oil based (or oil based solvent)liquid.
Latex is pigment suspend in water with latex (a form of rubber) to help it adhere.
water and oil dont mix well.
I don't see why it wouldn't work, in fact I think I've seen it done on ';This Old House.'; If there is problem because the latex doesn't stick to the oil, you can paint the area over with a product called liquid sandpaper.
the worst scenario
is oil over latex paint !
anyway , sand , skim coat the walls ,
and prime in latex,
and finish in latex.
and chalk it up to life experience.
and move on.
good luck.
What kind of latex could I use to make a halloween mask?
What type of latex could I use to make my own Halloween Rubber masks? It has always been my dream to do that for a living. I have searched everywhere on Ebay and I get body latex and rubber mask results. What type of latex could I use to make a latex rubber mask?What kind of latex could I use to make a halloween mask?
Liquid Latex.
www.frightcatalog.com
Liquid Latex.
www.frightcatalog.com
How well does latex paint work on neoprene?
And the latex paint will be under water all the time. Thanks!How well does latex paint work on neoprene?
There is special paint used for surfaces that will be underwear. It's a lot more expensive than regular paint too. Try the link below. You might even want to put a protective coating over the newly painted service similar to that done with Sun Decks.
There is special paint used for surfaces that will be underwear. It's a lot more expensive than regular paint too. Try the link below. You might even want to put a protective coating over the newly painted service similar to that done with Sun Decks.
Is it true your not supposed to wear latex gloves if you have a open sore on your hands?
I work with Ink solvents at a printing company and they have caused a poison ivy like reaction on my hand. Ive heard that having sores then wearing Latex causes it to get in your blood stream.Is it true your not supposed to wear latex gloves if you have a open sore on your hands?
I don't think that wearing latex gloves with an open wound allows latex to enter the blod stream, it sounds more like you have developed a latex allergy, you should ask your employer to provide you with non-latex gloves like nitrle or vinyl.Is it true your not supposed to wear latex gloves if you have a open sore on your hands?
No thats not true. If you are getting a rash from the gloves your probably allergic to latex. Trying using vinyl gloves instead.
I don't think that wearing latex gloves with an open wound allows latex to enter the blod stream, it sounds more like you have developed a latex allergy, you should ask your employer to provide you with non-latex gloves like nitrle or vinyl.Is it true your not supposed to wear latex gloves if you have a open sore on your hands?
No thats not true. If you are getting a rash from the gloves your probably allergic to latex. Trying using vinyl gloves instead.
Is this paint latex or oil? Is it safe for pregnant women?
Is the Dulux Soft Sheen Pure Brilliant White - http://www.dulux.co.uk/products/info/sof鈥?/a> latex or oil? I ask if it safe for someone who is pregnant to move into a home that is newly painted with this product. They say latex is okay, oil is not.
Thanks!Is this paint latex or oil? Is it safe for pregnant women?
The website you linked to indicates that the paint is water soluble:
';Cleaning
After use, remove as much paint as possible from brushes before cleaning with water.';
Therefore, it is latex and should be okay. Any fumes have the potential to be harmful, but latex is certainly less harmful than oil would be.Is this paint latex or oil? Is it safe for pregnant women?
latex is water based, and is safe.
Oil paint has harmful fumes and is not safe for pg. women.
I have not heard of the paint you listed.
Remember all oil base paints are harmful. That's why it is being discontinued here in calif. Also water base paint is only safe for pregnant women if it is odorless or does not contain EG.
It is latex. You can tell by the wash up procedures.
';After use, remove as much paint as possible from brushes before cleaning with water';
Thanks!Is this paint latex or oil? Is it safe for pregnant women?
The website you linked to indicates that the paint is water soluble:
';Cleaning
After use, remove as much paint as possible from brushes before cleaning with water.';
Therefore, it is latex and should be okay. Any fumes have the potential to be harmful, but latex is certainly less harmful than oil would be.Is this paint latex or oil? Is it safe for pregnant women?
latex is water based, and is safe.
Oil paint has harmful fumes and is not safe for pg. women.
I have not heard of the paint you listed.
Remember all oil base paints are harmful. That's why it is being discontinued here in calif. Also water base paint is only safe for pregnant women if it is odorless or does not contain EG.
It is latex. You can tell by the wash up procedures.
';After use, remove as much paint as possible from brushes before cleaning with water';
What (and how) to use to remove dried latex paint from woodwork?
I would just like to remove the latex paint. Not the finish of the woodwork.
ThanksWhat (and how) to use to remove dried latex paint from woodwork?
well if you're certain it's latex and you absolutely do no not want to remove any of the underlying finish...that means manual removal is out (scraping, sanding, etc..) that leaves chemical...
A methylene chloride based chemical stripper (Strip-X, Kutz-It) is usually the strongest you can buy in a Lowe's or Home Depot...however it may also remove the finish depending on how many layers of paint there are..
Buy a small can of paint stripper, Lowe's has a milder citrus based stripper, and apply a small amount to the surface of your piece...tape butcher's paper or a couple layers of newspaper over the area to create a ';wet patch'; ...read the directions on whatever you decide to buy, if it says allow to set for 6 hours...check on your patch every hour or so...keep checking until the paint has begun to blister...scrape small amounts off until you see the finish...
Trying to remove just the right layer of paint if all about timing...you need to know how long it takes the product to remove the top layers of paint without damaging the finish...once you know this...apply the stripper to the remainder of your project and cover with the newspaper...covering or applying a ';wet patch'; keeps the vapors close to your project and allows them to work more efficiently...be careful however as some strippers work by raising the grain on your wood...and you'll have to resand and refinish the piece anyway...which usually gives the best results...
or you can use a product specifically designed for latex paint...called Latex Paint Remover...amazingly...however, I've found that is doesn't really work very well and is mostly made for cleaning up paint spills...it typically smears the latex as it dissolves it and makes for a huge mess...if you decide on the latex....DO NOT put/soak water on your piece. You may think that the finish underneath is intact only to find that water has soaked into the wood..raising the grain in spots..leaving you with dissolved paint that has soaked into the wood...then you're stuck with no choice but to sand and refinish...
good luck...What (and how) to use to remove dried latex paint from woodwork?
goof off works great but be gentle
Try Formula 409, let it soak, then scrub
with stiff brush and hot water. Wire brush would likely leave marks
Please use salt papers and rub them nicely. It removes the latex as well as helps u to do the next coat of painting with ease.
There is a product called ';Goof- Off'; it is a latex paint remover for spills, it's available at the big-box stores and paint stores
If there is a finish under the latex, the easiest way would be a heat gun. When the paint first 'wrinkles' under the heat, it can be scraped off with a putty knife or spatula.
Go with the Goof-Off. Blot on and rub off. Simple as that. Doing it at my house and it works great.
Use a latex paint remover product. Several applications may be necessary depending on the amount of paint to be removed. Use a NIOSH respirator with organic vapor cartridge in a well ventilated area (about $30) to protect your lungs if you have a lot.
Do not use citristrip or a methyl whatever it is product as it will remove the finish.
Soapy water with a sponge and rub briskly. Any chemicals may damage the finish, especially those with a petroleum base.
ThanksWhat (and how) to use to remove dried latex paint from woodwork?
well if you're certain it's latex and you absolutely do no not want to remove any of the underlying finish...that means manual removal is out (scraping, sanding, etc..) that leaves chemical...
A methylene chloride based chemical stripper (Strip-X, Kutz-It) is usually the strongest you can buy in a Lowe's or Home Depot...however it may also remove the finish depending on how many layers of paint there are..
Buy a small can of paint stripper, Lowe's has a milder citrus based stripper, and apply a small amount to the surface of your piece...tape butcher's paper or a couple layers of newspaper over the area to create a ';wet patch'; ...read the directions on whatever you decide to buy, if it says allow to set for 6 hours...check on your patch every hour or so...keep checking until the paint has begun to blister...scrape small amounts off until you see the finish...
Trying to remove just the right layer of paint if all about timing...you need to know how long it takes the product to remove the top layers of paint without damaging the finish...once you know this...apply the stripper to the remainder of your project and cover with the newspaper...covering or applying a ';wet patch'; keeps the vapors close to your project and allows them to work more efficiently...be careful however as some strippers work by raising the grain on your wood...and you'll have to resand and refinish the piece anyway...which usually gives the best results...
or you can use a product specifically designed for latex paint...called Latex Paint Remover...amazingly...however, I've found that is doesn't really work very well and is mostly made for cleaning up paint spills...it typically smears the latex as it dissolves it and makes for a huge mess...if you decide on the latex....DO NOT put/soak water on your piece. You may think that the finish underneath is intact only to find that water has soaked into the wood..raising the grain in spots..leaving you with dissolved paint that has soaked into the wood...then you're stuck with no choice but to sand and refinish...
good luck...What (and how) to use to remove dried latex paint from woodwork?
goof off works great but be gentle
Try Formula 409, let it soak, then scrub
with stiff brush and hot water. Wire brush would likely leave marks
Please use salt papers and rub them nicely. It removes the latex as well as helps u to do the next coat of painting with ease.
There is a product called ';Goof- Off'; it is a latex paint remover for spills, it's available at the big-box stores and paint stores
If there is a finish under the latex, the easiest way would be a heat gun. When the paint first 'wrinkles' under the heat, it can be scraped off with a putty knife or spatula.
Go with the Goof-Off. Blot on and rub off. Simple as that. Doing it at my house and it works great.
Use a latex paint remover product. Several applications may be necessary depending on the amount of paint to be removed. Use a NIOSH respirator with organic vapor cartridge in a well ventilated area (about $30) to protect your lungs if you have a lot.
Do not use citristrip or a methyl whatever it is product as it will remove the finish.
Soapy water with a sponge and rub briskly. Any chemicals may damage the finish, especially those with a petroleum base.
How to make latex paint transparent?
I am trying to figure out how to make latex paint ';transparent.'; Is there anything I can add? Its a technique I am trying after painting a solid color on my wall, and then adding a transparent color (darker) with possibly a feather duster. My friend suggested I buy irredescent paint for this purpose, but I have already purchased the color I want, and it is just a solid color of latex. Any idea's?How to make latex paint transparent?
I would say thin it out with water. Water is the primary solvent in latex paint, so it would be the best choice.
Try taking a small sample of your paint, and add maybe 1 part water to 3 parts paint. Try this combo out on a surface you don't care about (like maybe paint a piece of cardboard or something). If it's not transparent enough, increase the ratio of water to paint. Like 1 part water to 2 parts paint, etc.How to make latex paint transparent?
Because of it's nature, it will never truely be tranparent. The thing you need to do is add a bit of the paint to clear GLAZE. Go to HGTV.com and there you should be able to find the ratio you want. Or, go to Lowes and ask in the paint dept. They should know. I've done what you are thinking of, and I just did trial and error to find the correct amount of paint to glaze. It was something like 1 part paint to 3 parts glaze.
Add a little water and mix it up. Then use anything you want: feather duster,rag,trashbag,sponge,t-shirt,whate鈥?to do the effect desired. You can make it less or more transparetn by diluting the paint more or less.
Read Harry Potter.
Glaze is the answer. Zinsser makes a product called ';Blend and Glaze'; which is compatible with latex paints and is designed specifically for your intended purpose (www.zinsser.com ; look for it under ';products'; then ';other specialty products';). You would have to experiment with the ratio to find the level of translucency your looking for. 50-50 is a good starting point. Remember that as you add more glaze, the color will become lighter, so you may want to darken your color first.
They also make an additive that will thin the mixture, which is sometimes desirable in faux finishes.
Hope this helps.internet explorer
I would say thin it out with water. Water is the primary solvent in latex paint, so it would be the best choice.
Try taking a small sample of your paint, and add maybe 1 part water to 3 parts paint. Try this combo out on a surface you don't care about (like maybe paint a piece of cardboard or something). If it's not transparent enough, increase the ratio of water to paint. Like 1 part water to 2 parts paint, etc.How to make latex paint transparent?
Because of it's nature, it will never truely be tranparent. The thing you need to do is add a bit of the paint to clear GLAZE. Go to HGTV.com and there you should be able to find the ratio you want. Or, go to Lowes and ask in the paint dept. They should know. I've done what you are thinking of, and I just did trial and error to find the correct amount of paint to glaze. It was something like 1 part paint to 3 parts glaze.
Add a little water and mix it up. Then use anything you want: feather duster,rag,trashbag,sponge,t-shirt,whate鈥?to do the effect desired. You can make it less or more transparetn by diluting the paint more or less.
Read Harry Potter.
Glaze is the answer. Zinsser makes a product called ';Blend and Glaze'; which is compatible with latex paints and is designed specifically for your intended purpose (www.zinsser.com ; look for it under ';products'; then ';other specialty products';). You would have to experiment with the ratio to find the level of translucency your looking for. 50-50 is a good starting point. Remember that as you add more glaze, the color will become lighter, so you may want to darken your color first.
They also make an additive that will thin the mixture, which is sometimes desirable in faux finishes.
Hope this helps.
Can you combine Latex and Acrylic Paints to achieve different colors?
Can you mix the two?Can you combine Latex and Acrylic Paints to achieve different colors?
latex and acrylic paints are both water based paints and can be mixed to make different colors. the only variation will be in the finish ie; glossy, satin or flat since most acrylic paints are flat.Can you combine Latex and Acrylic Paints to achieve different colors?
They are both water based so yes. At least, all the ones I've seen described as latex and acrylic are water based. Check the labels to be 100% sure. Alkyd is oil based.
No you can not mix. One paint is oiled based and one is water based. Water and oil don't mix.
latex and acrylic paints are both water based paints and can be mixed to make different colors. the only variation will be in the finish ie; glossy, satin or flat since most acrylic paints are flat.Can you combine Latex and Acrylic Paints to achieve different colors?
They are both water based so yes. At least, all the ones I've seen described as latex and acrylic are water based. Check the labels to be 100% sure. Alkyd is oil based.
No you can not mix. One paint is oiled based and one is water based. Water and oil don't mix.
I am trying to paint and the old latex paint is peeling off what looks to be a plaster oil based paint.?
Any tips on what I should do to prepare to prime and paint?
Thanks a bumch!I am trying to paint and the old latex paint is peeling off what looks to be a plaster oil based paint.?
go to the paint store and buy ';Paso';. It'll cut the grease, grime, etc., that causes the latex not to adhere to the oil base. You can first get a 120 grit sand paper and sand first, just a swipe or two, then clean it with the paso on an old rag. Just pour some on a rag and wipe. Be sure and let that rag air out fully so you don't burn your house down by putting it in the trashcan. Believe it or not, it will self combust if not carefully disposed of. Be sure that if you have any pilot lights, to temporarily turn the gas off until you can air the fumes out of the house. It is kinda strong, but it works. Then you can re-light the pilot lights. Ask the people at the paint store, they'll be able to help. It'd be better if you go to a real paint store, and forego the heartache of the big home improvement store amatuers (store names withheld for legal recourse purposes).I am trying to paint and the old latex paint is peeling off what looks to be a plaster oil based paint.?
Typically you can not apply latex paint directly over oil based paint. The oil based paint is too slick for latex to adhere. Prime the oil based paint with KILZ, then apply the latex paint.
Welcome to my world.
First you need to peel the paint. I find that it is very relaxing especially after a bad day at work. Once you have all the peeling paint removed, You can lightly sand and prime with a really good primer.
If you have one in the area, go to a store that sells nothing but paint, they'll be able to recommend one.
Good luck
As a painter, been there done that. Unfortunately, there are no easy remedies to your situation. You first have to scrape all of the loose paint off. What starts as a small area will often end up covering a large area. the good news is that the paint generally scrapes off easily. Once you have an area where the entire edge is soundly adhered, you have to prep the oil based paint that is now exposed so that new primer will stick. first clean it, then either sand it, or use liquid sand paper/deglosser. Once prepped use a bonding primer on the exposed oil based paint. You can feather the edges of the newer paint, but I prefer to blend the edge with setting type drywall compound. This type of drywall compound is tough to sand, so make it as smooth as you can with your drywall knife. Sand it even smoother when dry, then prime the entire wall with a quality water based primer, and paint. FYI, I like to use the 90 minute setting compound.
Two words~strip %26amp; sand
hi, first scape any and ALL areas of loose paint.now use a product called ONE TIME.you can find this at most hardware stores.it dryes fast and sands easy.use it where ever there is a edge.using a 6in drywall knife ,spread the One Time ,following the paint edges as smooth as you can .this will feather out and take away blemishes.now with mesh type (fine) sand paper lightly sand all mudded areas.the One Time is low shrinking,but may need a 2nd coat.if so apply 2nd coat let dry and resand.yes,you can use the 90 min type setting that Kirk wrote about ,but the One Time don't have to be mixed.if you do use 90 get the e-z sand in the (blue and white)bag. now you need to use a special primer that will allow your color coat to adhere.i would use Zinnzar-Bulls Eye 123 or Kiltz.they both work well.the Kiltz is a little more smelly.this is important,because it's what will make your next coat stay on.you can see the blemishes better after this step,so if you need to ,you can touch up one more time. but if you do then you need to reprime those areas over again.now your ready to put on top coat. good luck.
Thanks a bumch!I am trying to paint and the old latex paint is peeling off what looks to be a plaster oil based paint.?
go to the paint store and buy ';Paso';. It'll cut the grease, grime, etc., that causes the latex not to adhere to the oil base. You can first get a 120 grit sand paper and sand first, just a swipe or two, then clean it with the paso on an old rag. Just pour some on a rag and wipe. Be sure and let that rag air out fully so you don't burn your house down by putting it in the trashcan. Believe it or not, it will self combust if not carefully disposed of. Be sure that if you have any pilot lights, to temporarily turn the gas off until you can air the fumes out of the house. It is kinda strong, but it works. Then you can re-light the pilot lights. Ask the people at the paint store, they'll be able to help. It'd be better if you go to a real paint store, and forego the heartache of the big home improvement store amatuers (store names withheld for legal recourse purposes).I am trying to paint and the old latex paint is peeling off what looks to be a plaster oil based paint.?
Typically you can not apply latex paint directly over oil based paint. The oil based paint is too slick for latex to adhere. Prime the oil based paint with KILZ, then apply the latex paint.
Welcome to my world.
First you need to peel the paint. I find that it is very relaxing especially after a bad day at work. Once you have all the peeling paint removed, You can lightly sand and prime with a really good primer.
If you have one in the area, go to a store that sells nothing but paint, they'll be able to recommend one.
Good luck
As a painter, been there done that. Unfortunately, there are no easy remedies to your situation. You first have to scrape all of the loose paint off. What starts as a small area will often end up covering a large area. the good news is that the paint generally scrapes off easily. Once you have an area where the entire edge is soundly adhered, you have to prep the oil based paint that is now exposed so that new primer will stick. first clean it, then either sand it, or use liquid sand paper/deglosser. Once prepped use a bonding primer on the exposed oil based paint. You can feather the edges of the newer paint, but I prefer to blend the edge with setting type drywall compound. This type of drywall compound is tough to sand, so make it as smooth as you can with your drywall knife. Sand it even smoother when dry, then prime the entire wall with a quality water based primer, and paint. FYI, I like to use the 90 minute setting compound.
Two words~strip %26amp; sand
hi, first scape any and ALL areas of loose paint.now use a product called ONE TIME.you can find this at most hardware stores.it dryes fast and sands easy.use it where ever there is a edge.using a 6in drywall knife ,spread the One Time ,following the paint edges as smooth as you can .this will feather out and take away blemishes.now with mesh type (fine) sand paper lightly sand all mudded areas.the One Time is low shrinking,but may need a 2nd coat.if so apply 2nd coat let dry and resand.yes,you can use the 90 min type setting that Kirk wrote about ,but the One Time don't have to be mixed.if you do use 90 get the e-z sand in the (blue and white)bag. now you need to use a special primer that will allow your color coat to adhere.i would use Zinnzar-Bulls Eye 123 or Kiltz.they both work well.the Kiltz is a little more smelly.this is important,because it's what will make your next coat stay on.you can see the blemishes better after this step,so if you need to ,you can touch up one more time. but if you do then you need to reprime those areas over again.now your ready to put on top coat. good luck.
I accidently mixed latex and oil when trying to do a faux, I need to repaint it, what should I do?
I wasn't paying attention and didn't realize it until I was cleaning up? I didn't like how it looked anyway but is there something I should do to either prepare the wall for repaint and which kind should I use to paint over it?I accidently mixed latex and oil when trying to do a faux, I need to repaint it, what should I do?
I bet that looks funky!
For now, do nothing. You will need to allow sufficient time for the paint to cure out before you do anything. A full cure will take a few weeks. Don't get in too much of a hurry. If you coat with a sealer before it is cured, it may never cure completely and you will have adhesion problems -- the paint will not stick to the walls.
If you aren't able to get any more specific advice, I would do an adhesion test after the paint is fully cured, again a possibly a few weeks. Place pieces of strong masking tape (not blue painter's tape) in several places and leave it for a few hours. Remove the tape, pulling away from the wall with the peeling tape perpendicular to the wall. If the paint stays, adhesion is good. If the paint comes off, the adhesion is a problem and ANY paint you put on top will eventually pull the existing off. The paint will have to come off, probably by sanding. Yuck!
If the adhesion is good, the gloss of the oil would come into play. High gloss or semi-gloss, you will need to lightly sand to break any gloss that is there. Satin, you should not need to sand. For either clean with mineral spirits to remove any excess oils from the oil paint or binder from the latex. Allow to dry and follow with a cleaning with tri-sodium phosphate, 2 cups (yes 2 cups) per gallon of water, scrub a bit and use some cleaning gloves as it will be hard on the skin. Rinse well and dry again.
I think you could paint at this point. Use a pigmented shellac sealer (BIN by Zinser), not an oil based sealer or any other primer as these may interact with leftovers from the prior problem. Shellac is rather inert and should not have this problem. Topcoat any way you wish (just don't mix oil and latex, in case you might forget) and forget this ever happened. I won't tell.
The real problem is there are some components in oil and latex paint that will mix, others that obviously will not. The tendency would be for one paint to pull some components from the other. The oil should have a stronger carrier component which would tend to pull binders from the latex. Add this to the fact that the carriers will not mix and you should have latex paint that does not have enough binder mixed in with oil paint that did not have enough carrier to get an even distribution.
Are both paints from the same manufacturer? If so, I would call their technical department. I have numbers for several manufacturers, email me if you can't find a number. They will be best suited to determine the problems and how to correct.
I am certain these paints did not mix well. Either one paint gripped to the wall and the other ';floated'; to the surface or you should have splotches with one paint in some areas and the other is the rest. Can you tell which way it went?I accidently mixed latex and oil when trying to do a faux, I need to repaint it, what should I do?
Oh man! You better wait for an expert on this one. Oil and water don't mix. You need to cover with primer, two coats, Let it dry a long while, before painting.
go get a zinnser primer and prime your walls, the go back and paint over it, then don't mix oil and water together again ha hah ah no really i have painted for 15 years seen in a million times and oh yeah you can keep painting with latex paint too, never paint a wall with oil base unless you want to smell it for 2 weeks
I bet that looks funky!
For now, do nothing. You will need to allow sufficient time for the paint to cure out before you do anything. A full cure will take a few weeks. Don't get in too much of a hurry. If you coat with a sealer before it is cured, it may never cure completely and you will have adhesion problems -- the paint will not stick to the walls.
If you aren't able to get any more specific advice, I would do an adhesion test after the paint is fully cured, again a possibly a few weeks. Place pieces of strong masking tape (not blue painter's tape) in several places and leave it for a few hours. Remove the tape, pulling away from the wall with the peeling tape perpendicular to the wall. If the paint stays, adhesion is good. If the paint comes off, the adhesion is a problem and ANY paint you put on top will eventually pull the existing off. The paint will have to come off, probably by sanding. Yuck!
If the adhesion is good, the gloss of the oil would come into play. High gloss or semi-gloss, you will need to lightly sand to break any gloss that is there. Satin, you should not need to sand. For either clean with mineral spirits to remove any excess oils from the oil paint or binder from the latex. Allow to dry and follow with a cleaning with tri-sodium phosphate, 2 cups (yes 2 cups) per gallon of water, scrub a bit and use some cleaning gloves as it will be hard on the skin. Rinse well and dry again.
I think you could paint at this point. Use a pigmented shellac sealer (BIN by Zinser), not an oil based sealer or any other primer as these may interact with leftovers from the prior problem. Shellac is rather inert and should not have this problem. Topcoat any way you wish (just don't mix oil and latex, in case you might forget) and forget this ever happened. I won't tell.
The real problem is there are some components in oil and latex paint that will mix, others that obviously will not. The tendency would be for one paint to pull some components from the other. The oil should have a stronger carrier component which would tend to pull binders from the latex. Add this to the fact that the carriers will not mix and you should have latex paint that does not have enough binder mixed in with oil paint that did not have enough carrier to get an even distribution.
Are both paints from the same manufacturer? If so, I would call their technical department. I have numbers for several manufacturers, email me if you can't find a number. They will be best suited to determine the problems and how to correct.
I am certain these paints did not mix well. Either one paint gripped to the wall and the other ';floated'; to the surface or you should have splotches with one paint in some areas and the other is the rest. Can you tell which way it went?I accidently mixed latex and oil when trying to do a faux, I need to repaint it, what should I do?
Oh man! You better wait for an expert on this one. Oil and water don't mix. You need to cover with primer, two coats, Let it dry a long while, before painting.
go get a zinnser primer and prime your walls, the go back and paint over it, then don't mix oil and water together again ha hah ah no really i have painted for 15 years seen in a million times and oh yeah you can keep painting with latex paint too, never paint a wall with oil base unless you want to smell it for 2 weeks
Which is better for painting furniture - oil or latex?
I'm painting a piece of furniture for the first time. Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated.Which is better for painting furniture - oil or latex?
i guess latex is better.
To achieve a professional quality finish you must sand the wood smooth, repair all defects, and prime the surface before painting. You should also use the highest quality paint and brushes to obtain the best resultsTo produce smooth surfaces, always sand with the grain of the wood. The material should go through at least three sandings with successively finer grit sandpaper. Start with 80 grit, move to 150 grit and finish with 220 grit. Use a tack cloth to remove dust between sandings.
Raise the grain in the wood by rubbing it lightly with a damp cloth. Allow the wood to dry, and sand the raised grain smooth with 400 or higher grit sandpaper or synthetic steel wool. Use a tack cloth to remove any sanding dust.
Use a lamp or flashlight to set up a raking light (a light that shines on the project's surfaces at a steep angle). Apply a light coat of denatured alcohol to each surface as you inspect it. Alcohol increases the bare wood's sheen and highlights any areas that still need sanding or smoothing. Rub out any rough spots with synthetic steel wool. Wipe the material with a clean tack cloth to remove any dust
Use a high quality synthetic bristled brush to apply a light coat of water-based, enamel undercoating primer to your project. Allow the primer to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions. Check the project one more time with the raking light and repair any imperfections.
Use a synthetic bristled brush to apply a light coat of latex (water-based) paint to your project. Allow the paint to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions and recoat with paint until you are satisfied with the finish. When painting, it is always better to apply two thin coats than one thick one, to avoid runs, drips, sags and other potential paint problems.
For more protection, you can add a topcoat to your paint with two layers of water-based polyurethane.
Apply a thin coat with a synthetic bristled brush.
Allow the polyurethane to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Sand the topcoat lightly with 400 or higher grit sandpaper or synthetic steel wool. Remove any sanding dust with a tack cloth.
Brush on a second light coat of polyurethane and allow it to dry.
Choosing Paint
When painting indoors, use paint marked as ';Interior'; or ';Interior/Exterior.'; Exterior paint is not for indoor use. Plus it doesn't dry as quickly and has a stronger odor 鈥?an important factor inside the house.
Sheen is the term used to describe the degree of light reflection a paint has. Usually the less sheen an interior paint has, the less stain-resistant it is. Different manufacturers may have various trade names for them, but in general sheens are classified as ';Gloss,'; ';Semi-Gloss,'; ';Satin'; and ';Flat.';
Gloss is the toughest. It's also an easier surface to clean, which makes it a good choice for areas of high traffic or constant use. Gloss is most often used on a home's wood trim, baseboards and kitchen and bath walls. Gloss paint will, however, show imperfections in the surface more than other sheens.
Semi-gloss paints are also durable and easy to clean, but have less shine than gloss. They are just as suitable for woodwork, kitchens, baths and other high-traffic or high-humidity places.
Satin offers a good combination of easy-clean and moderate sheen.
Eggshell is a smooth, low-sheen finish that has less sheen than satin. It is ideal for living rooms, dining rooms, bedrooms and dens.
Flat paint is considered non-reflective and a good choice for large wall and ceiling areas. It also hides imperfections well and spatters less when applied.
Semi-gloss and satin are typically the best sheen choices for painting furniture.
Painting Tips and Considerations
Always use quality paint. Paints with higher concentrations of solids cover better, flow more evenly and help hide or reduce brush strokes.
Use the right brush. Synthetic bristle brushes are for latex (acrylic or water-based) paint and natural bristle brushes are for solvent-based paint.
Always use a primer. Primer adheres to wood surfaces better than paint. Primer also helps stop or reduce the effects of acids, pitch or tar that can migrate out of the wood and stain through your paint.
Brush with the wood grain. Brushing with the grain helps the paint flow more evenly and reduces the appearance of lap marks.
Allow the paint to dry completely between coats. Paint that hasn't dried fully tends to have higher surface tension and restricts your paints flow.Which is better for painting furniture - oil or latex?
if it's wood i would highly suggest a latex. sand it with a light sand paper and clean it up. better yet ( for wood ), you should stain it. if it's outdoor furniture, like metal, i would suggest spraying it with a rustolium spray...sand it down first, then prime in, them spray the color after the primer is dry. allow about 24 hours to dry before applying another coat. i would not suggest staining when the weather is damp or humid, it doesn't dry well. hope this helps
I'm not an expert but I've painted many floors. I believe that oil is more durable. If it's an area that might get wet you will want to put something in the paint like Skid-tex. Painted floors can be very slippery when wet.
oil
spirit polish
latex
Oil is much more durable but sometimes doesn't flatten out as well as latex. Since you're not used to doing it you should use latex. If you are going to paint with oil use a primer first.
The difference between Latex or Oil has become a mute point now... I would use a latex because it cleans easier. The important consideration is Gloss or flat and the surface of the furniture. If it is covered with polyurethane or shellac, you will have to break up the surface with steelwool #1 grade or a sandpaper 200.
If you don't then the latex will attempt to dry and slide into an alligator pattern which can be sanded but might need to be removed entirely with paint stripper.
Good Luck
i guess latex is better.
To achieve a professional quality finish you must sand the wood smooth, repair all defects, and prime the surface before painting. You should also use the highest quality paint and brushes to obtain the best resultsTo produce smooth surfaces, always sand with the grain of the wood. The material should go through at least three sandings with successively finer grit sandpaper. Start with 80 grit, move to 150 grit and finish with 220 grit. Use a tack cloth to remove dust between sandings.
Raise the grain in the wood by rubbing it lightly with a damp cloth. Allow the wood to dry, and sand the raised grain smooth with 400 or higher grit sandpaper or synthetic steel wool. Use a tack cloth to remove any sanding dust.
Use a lamp or flashlight to set up a raking light (a light that shines on the project's surfaces at a steep angle). Apply a light coat of denatured alcohol to each surface as you inspect it. Alcohol increases the bare wood's sheen and highlights any areas that still need sanding or smoothing. Rub out any rough spots with synthetic steel wool. Wipe the material with a clean tack cloth to remove any dust
Use a high quality synthetic bristled brush to apply a light coat of water-based, enamel undercoating primer to your project. Allow the primer to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions. Check the project one more time with the raking light and repair any imperfections.
Use a synthetic bristled brush to apply a light coat of latex (water-based) paint to your project. Allow the paint to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions and recoat with paint until you are satisfied with the finish. When painting, it is always better to apply two thin coats than one thick one, to avoid runs, drips, sags and other potential paint problems.
For more protection, you can add a topcoat to your paint with two layers of water-based polyurethane.
Apply a thin coat with a synthetic bristled brush.
Allow the polyurethane to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Sand the topcoat lightly with 400 or higher grit sandpaper or synthetic steel wool. Remove any sanding dust with a tack cloth.
Brush on a second light coat of polyurethane and allow it to dry.
Choosing Paint
When painting indoors, use paint marked as ';Interior'; or ';Interior/Exterior.'; Exterior paint is not for indoor use. Plus it doesn't dry as quickly and has a stronger odor 鈥?an important factor inside the house.
Sheen is the term used to describe the degree of light reflection a paint has. Usually the less sheen an interior paint has, the less stain-resistant it is. Different manufacturers may have various trade names for them, but in general sheens are classified as ';Gloss,'; ';Semi-Gloss,'; ';Satin'; and ';Flat.';
Gloss is the toughest. It's also an easier surface to clean, which makes it a good choice for areas of high traffic or constant use. Gloss is most often used on a home's wood trim, baseboards and kitchen and bath walls. Gloss paint will, however, show imperfections in the surface more than other sheens.
Semi-gloss paints are also durable and easy to clean, but have less shine than gloss. They are just as suitable for woodwork, kitchens, baths and other high-traffic or high-humidity places.
Satin offers a good combination of easy-clean and moderate sheen.
Eggshell is a smooth, low-sheen finish that has less sheen than satin. It is ideal for living rooms, dining rooms, bedrooms and dens.
Flat paint is considered non-reflective and a good choice for large wall and ceiling areas. It also hides imperfections well and spatters less when applied.
Semi-gloss and satin are typically the best sheen choices for painting furniture.
Painting Tips and Considerations
Always use quality paint. Paints with higher concentrations of solids cover better, flow more evenly and help hide or reduce brush strokes.
Use the right brush. Synthetic bristle brushes are for latex (acrylic or water-based) paint and natural bristle brushes are for solvent-based paint.
Always use a primer. Primer adheres to wood surfaces better than paint. Primer also helps stop or reduce the effects of acids, pitch or tar that can migrate out of the wood and stain through your paint.
Brush with the wood grain. Brushing with the grain helps the paint flow more evenly and reduces the appearance of lap marks.
Allow the paint to dry completely between coats. Paint that hasn't dried fully tends to have higher surface tension and restricts your paints flow.Which is better for painting furniture - oil or latex?
if it's wood i would highly suggest a latex. sand it with a light sand paper and clean it up. better yet ( for wood ), you should stain it. if it's outdoor furniture, like metal, i would suggest spraying it with a rustolium spray...sand it down first, then prime in, them spray the color after the primer is dry. allow about 24 hours to dry before applying another coat. i would not suggest staining when the weather is damp or humid, it doesn't dry well. hope this helps
I'm not an expert but I've painted many floors. I believe that oil is more durable. If it's an area that might get wet you will want to put something in the paint like Skid-tex. Painted floors can be very slippery when wet.
oil
spirit polish
latex
Oil is much more durable but sometimes doesn't flatten out as well as latex. Since you're not used to doing it you should use latex. If you are going to paint with oil use a primer first.
The difference between Latex or Oil has become a mute point now... I would use a latex because it cleans easier. The important consideration is Gloss or flat and the surface of the furniture. If it is covered with polyurethane or shellac, you will have to break up the surface with steelwool #1 grade or a sandpaper 200.
If you don't then the latex will attempt to dry and slide into an alligator pattern which can be sanded but might need to be removed entirely with paint stripper.
Good Luck
How Common Is It To Be Allergic To Latex Condoms?
I am about to use a durex latex condom, it is my first time so I don't know if I am allergic to latex or not. I am just wondering how common it is? Should I just go for it? Thanks alot.How Common Is It To Be Allergic To Latex Condoms?
I think its more uncommon than common. I say go for it. You wont know until you try it!How Common Is It To Be Allergic To Latex Condoms?
Most likely not that common. Considering all the people that use condoms. It's probably like Hanah Montana's song ';One in a million'; hahaha
if u were allergic you wouldnt be able to wear gloves for example if u are worried about it you can buy condoms that are latex free
I think its more uncommon than common. I say go for it. You wont know until you try it!How Common Is It To Be Allergic To Latex Condoms?
Most likely not that common. Considering all the people that use condoms. It's probably like Hanah Montana's song ';One in a million'; hahaha
if u were allergic you wouldnt be able to wear gloves for example if u are worried about it you can buy condoms that are latex free
Can I use latex paint as a primer under oil -based paints?
I painted my fireplace with an oil-based paint. The trim must be painted a lighter colour. I accidentally touched the trim with a dark colour and so I must put a primer over the trim to keep the darker colour from seeping through. Should I use a latex or oil-based primer/paint under the top coat which will be oil-based?Can I use latex paint as a primer under oil -based paints?
as a painting contractor i would reccomend you use an oil primer,and if you use the fireplace a lot i would also reccomend some high heat enamel for the brocks...if you dont use it much or at all straight enamel will be alright.Can I use latex paint as a primer under oil -based paints?
fire place is it brick or wooden casing? oil based paint is still flammable may ignite if to close to heat? do not assume this may work!
You touched the trim with a dark color no big deal. You do not have to reprime. Just follow up with 2 coats on the trim, the darker color will not seep through. Don't bother repriming!!!!!
the latex paint can be easily rubbed out after you painted on oil base paint.
Don't use a latex primer under oil paint. Use this stuff called Kilz. It will cover anything. It is the best stuff. You can get it at Home Depot or any hardware/paint store.
Use Alky Flat paint- thats Oil Base Flat paint, don't matter if its interior or exterior- Kilz sucks, its to glossy and shows every where you use it.lenders
as a painting contractor i would reccomend you use an oil primer,and if you use the fireplace a lot i would also reccomend some high heat enamel for the brocks...if you dont use it much or at all straight enamel will be alright.Can I use latex paint as a primer under oil -based paints?
fire place is it brick or wooden casing? oil based paint is still flammable may ignite if to close to heat? do not assume this may work!
You touched the trim with a dark color no big deal. You do not have to reprime. Just follow up with 2 coats on the trim, the darker color will not seep through. Don't bother repriming!!!!!
the latex paint can be easily rubbed out after you painted on oil base paint.
Don't use a latex primer under oil paint. Use this stuff called Kilz. It will cover anything. It is the best stuff. You can get it at Home Depot or any hardware/paint store.
Use Alky Flat paint- thats Oil Base Flat paint, don't matter if its interior or exterior- Kilz sucks, its to glossy and shows every where you use it.
How to remove latex spray paint from hair?
My client was spray painting a wall and it got onto her hair---is there a special treatment to remove it?How to remove latex spray paint from hair?
full a small container of bi carb and soda mix untill it is a paste with water then rince well wash your hair with shampoo twice then conditioner this gets out every thing even hairspray out of hairHow to remove latex spray paint from hair?
Scissors work great too!!
No special treatment, if it's latex pain, just good old fashioned soap and warm water.
I hope this helps....
rentahandyman@yahoo.com
Shampoo as normal, just longer and more scrubbing. Latex paint comes off with soap and water.
dish soap, awesome cleaner from dollar tree for a dollar a bottle. + time
full a small container of bi carb and soda mix untill it is a paste with water then rince well wash your hair with shampoo twice then conditioner this gets out every thing even hairspray out of hairHow to remove latex spray paint from hair?
Scissors work great too!!
No special treatment, if it's latex pain, just good old fashioned soap and warm water.
I hope this helps....
rentahandyman@yahoo.com
Shampoo as normal, just longer and more scrubbing. Latex paint comes off with soap and water.
dish soap, awesome cleaner from dollar tree for a dollar a bottle. + time
How to get latex paint off?
I bought a pair of used Paradigm Reference speakers which are in mint condition, except they have a streaky drip of white latex paint running down one of the edges. Ugh!! I know it doesn't matter, but any ideas how to get it off without defacing the speaker at all? Or should I just leave it alone. These are very expensive speakers and I definitely don't want to devalue them stupidly by trying to take off this paint. Any ideas?How to get latex paint off?
http://www.hawthornedirect.com/chomp/how鈥?/a>
CHOMP! is the first cleaner ever brought to the consumer market that will actually eat oil. CHOMP contains billions of Natural Oil Eating Microbes. Contains no dyes - this, along with being pH neutral, makes CHOMP safe for just about any cleaning job, on fabrics, woods, plastic, Paint and painted surfaces, nylon, rubber, and all hard surfaces.How to get latex paint off?
goof off or a bottle of rubbing alcohol and a paper towel gently wipe you may have to do this repeatedly to get it all off but you can take your time and preserve the speaker..
de natured alcohol, but will probably ruin the varnish too, at any home depot. best bet is to carefully scrape with a razor, (must have very strong hands), until almost gone, then lightly sand with very fine, (400 grit) sand paper paper, wipe dust away with a clean cloth, and use a clear coat spray
have you tried wipe them with WATER.. latex is meant to wipe off with water, or even ALCOHOL, ACETONE..MENERAL SPIRITS, do not try JUMAICANA RUM,, GOOD luck,, try WATER FIRST..
LATEX PAINT IS WATER BASED SO USE HOT SOAPY WATER
We just had a painter in to do our master bedroom and he told us that denatured alcohol cuts thru latex paint like a hot knife thru butter. Dissolves and removes it instantly. Remember this is denatured alcohol, not isopropyl (spelling?) You can get the denatured at the pharmacy, you may have to ask for it.
Buy a small can of Goof Off from your paint store or Home Depot and try it in a place where it is not visible...if ok then use it on the paint spot..
http://www.hawthornedirect.com/chomp/how鈥?/a>
CHOMP! is the first cleaner ever brought to the consumer market that will actually eat oil. CHOMP contains billions of Natural Oil Eating Microbes. Contains no dyes - this, along with being pH neutral, makes CHOMP safe for just about any cleaning job, on fabrics, woods, plastic, Paint and painted surfaces, nylon, rubber, and all hard surfaces.How to get latex paint off?
goof off or a bottle of rubbing alcohol and a paper towel gently wipe you may have to do this repeatedly to get it all off but you can take your time and preserve the speaker..
de natured alcohol, but will probably ruin the varnish too, at any home depot. best bet is to carefully scrape with a razor, (must have very strong hands), until almost gone, then lightly sand with very fine, (400 grit) sand paper paper, wipe dust away with a clean cloth, and use a clear coat spray
have you tried wipe them with WATER.. latex is meant to wipe off with water, or even ALCOHOL, ACETONE..MENERAL SPIRITS, do not try JUMAICANA RUM,, GOOD luck,, try WATER FIRST..
LATEX PAINT IS WATER BASED SO USE HOT SOAPY WATER
We just had a painter in to do our master bedroom and he told us that denatured alcohol cuts thru latex paint like a hot knife thru butter. Dissolves and removes it instantly. Remember this is denatured alcohol, not isopropyl (spelling?) You can get the denatured at the pharmacy, you may have to ask for it.
Buy a small can of Goof Off from your paint store or Home Depot and try it in a place where it is not visible...if ok then use it on the paint spot..
How do I clean spray piant & hi-gloss latex paint off of cement?
We pulled the carpet up in our living room to prepare for a new tile or wood floor. The builders left quite a painted mess on the cement slab. We're also considering the option of using cement paint and painting the floor rather than installing a new floor, for now.How do I clean spray piant %26amp; hi-gloss latex paint off of cement?
There's really no good way. The latex paint may come off if you scrape it. (I'd reccommend a 5-in-1 painter's tool. You can pick one up at Lowe's or Home Depot.) If you're really desperate, you could rent a powerwasher and see if that would do it. Try asking someone at the hardware store to see if they have ideas.How do I clean spray piant %26amp; hi-gloss latex paint off of cement?
Paint stripper and a wire brush, it probably won't come off to easy. If you are putting new flooring over this then why would you need to remove it? I would just leave it.
A scraper and some paint remover may help remove it but there is no easy way, hard at it scraping. depending on what you plan to instal you may need to only smooth it down.
There's really no good way. The latex paint may come off if you scrape it. (I'd reccommend a 5-in-1 painter's tool. You can pick one up at Lowe's or Home Depot.) If you're really desperate, you could rent a powerwasher and see if that would do it. Try asking someone at the hardware store to see if they have ideas.How do I clean spray piant %26amp; hi-gloss latex paint off of cement?
Paint stripper and a wire brush, it probably won't come off to easy. If you are putting new flooring over this then why would you need to remove it? I would just leave it.
A scraper and some paint remover may help remove it but there is no easy way, hard at it scraping. depending on what you plan to instal you may need to only smooth it down.
Can you use latex paint with an airbrush?
I want to create some wall size murals and I want to use an airbrush. Can you use standard (latex) wall paint with an airbrush. If yes what type of airbrush is the best to purchase.Can you use latex paint with an airbrush?
Here is a guy used latex and airbrush on model planes:
http://www.rccaraction.com/ma/how_to/lat鈥?/a>
Great Planes Model Distributors Co., P.O. Box 9021, Champaign, IL 61826-9021; (800) 682-8948; fax (217) 398-0008; www.greatplanes.com.
**************************************鈥?br>
Airbrush Depot
http://www.airbrush-depot.com/scripts/de鈥?/a>
http://www.howtoairbrush.com/
http://www.airheadairbrush.com/Can you use latex paint with an airbrush?
I'm glad you asked that question, I have stayed away from latex so far, but may give it a try now. My biggest concern is that latex seems to get that skin on it so fast, big clogger.
Would love to hear how it works out for you if you decide to use it for your mural.
I have done murals on my walls though and just used acrylics.
I have done it many times.
Sure...but I'd go with an airbrush that's more suited for heavier body paints like the Iwata Eclipse, that way you'll have to thin the paint less.
You can use artists airbrush acrylics for murals as well, such as Golden and ComArt. Just varnish over when finished (semi or matt).
Here is a guy used latex and airbrush on model planes:
http://www.rccaraction.com/ma/how_to/lat鈥?/a>
Great Planes Model Distributors Co., P.O. Box 9021, Champaign, IL 61826-9021; (800) 682-8948; fax (217) 398-0008; www.greatplanes.com.
**************************************鈥?br>
Airbrush Depot
http://www.airbrush-depot.com/scripts/de鈥?/a>
http://www.howtoairbrush.com/
http://www.airheadairbrush.com/Can you use latex paint with an airbrush?
I'm glad you asked that question, I have stayed away from latex so far, but may give it a try now. My biggest concern is that latex seems to get that skin on it so fast, big clogger.
Would love to hear how it works out for you if you decide to use it for your mural.
I have done murals on my walls though and just used acrylics.
I have done it many times.
Sure...but I'd go with an airbrush that's more suited for heavier body paints like the Iwata Eclipse, that way you'll have to thin the paint less.
You can use artists airbrush acrylics for murals as well, such as Golden and ComArt. Just varnish over when finished (semi or matt).
What is a good clear paint sealer for latex paint that won't turn yellow like polyurethane?
I've painted the floor (plywood) with latex paint and added some flowers along the border. I want to put a sealer on it that won't turn yellow like polyurethane does. Any ideas? This is a covered porch so it needs to withstand the weather that may blow in on it. Thanks for your help!!What is a good clear paint sealer for latex paint that won't turn yellow like polyurethane?
Minwax has a water based version of their Helmsman spar urethane. it's a clear, non-yellowing finish for interior or exterior use.What is a good clear paint sealer for latex paint that won't turn yellow like polyurethane?
Varithane makes a water based polyurethane that doesn't yellow. It is for floors. The only problem is that it is for interior floors. I don't know how it will hold up to the weather outside.
There are non-yellowing products - varnish, you need to put several coats on, let dry well between each coat
there is a exterior water base poly by zar, It will do the job
Minwax has a water based version of their Helmsman spar urethane. it's a clear, non-yellowing finish for interior or exterior use.What is a good clear paint sealer for latex paint that won't turn yellow like polyurethane?
Varithane makes a water based polyurethane that doesn't yellow. It is for floors. The only problem is that it is for interior floors. I don't know how it will hold up to the weather outside.
There are non-yellowing products - varnish, you need to put several coats on, let dry well between each coat
there is a exterior water base poly by zar, It will do the job
What can I use as a substitute for latex gloves?
I am going into a medical career track soon and will be required to wear latex gloves often. However, I have a latex allergy. Is there anything else I can use as a substitution?What can I use as a substitute for latex gloves?
Yup, nitrile or vinyl gloves. Completely latex free for exactly that reason. I know a lot of groups have switched over to them from latex rather than worry about it. I believe there are a few other options as well.What can I use as a substitute for latex gloves?
Most hospitals don't use much in the way of latex gloves any more. They use latex free polypropylene and some vinyl product gloves.lenders
Yup, nitrile or vinyl gloves. Completely latex free for exactly that reason. I know a lot of groups have switched over to them from latex rather than worry about it. I believe there are a few other options as well.What can I use as a substitute for latex gloves?
Most hospitals don't use much in the way of latex gloves any more. They use latex free polypropylene and some vinyl product gloves.
In Canada what is a ball park price of a 3.8 litre can of latex paint?
I am going out tomorrow to buy a 3.8 litre can of latex paint. What sort of price range should I expect to pay? Any suggestions on a brand that would offer good coverage when painting over a dark color?In Canada what is a ball park price of a 3.8 litre can of latex paint?
Between $28-$54 depending on the brand. If you are painting over a dark color don`t forget to prime it first or you will be wasting your time and paint trying to cover it.
Between $28-$54 depending on the brand. If you are painting over a dark color don`t forget to prime it first or you will be wasting your time and paint trying to cover it.
How well does latex paint work on neoprene?
And the latex paint on the neoprene will be underwater a lot. Thanks!How well does latex paint work on neoprene?
poor to crappy
poor to crappy
How to dye fabric that has rubber latex in it?
i have a thing that is supposed to help your wrist, and its a tan ugly color...i want to dye it black, but its not made out of just cotton.. its a stretchy fabric and the package says it contains rubber latex. is there anyway to dye it? can i use hair coloring and soak it in it?How to dye fabric that has rubber latex in it?
Sounds like an ace bandage sort of thing, and no, they don't dye well. Why not make a cover for it, though, with a piece of cotton-lycra or nylon-lycra fabric?
Rubber doesn't do well with the heat needed for dyes.
Sounds like an ace bandage sort of thing, and no, they don't dye well. Why not make a cover for it, though, with a piece of cotton-lycra or nylon-lycra fabric?
Rubber doesn't do well with the heat needed for dyes.
Whats the difference between Interior and Exterior Latex paint? Can they be mixed and used indoors?
The difference is in the resin concentration. I suggest you not to mix them, it may have side effects(it really depends on what else is inside it). Why don't you use them separate? The one for exterior on the wall that has a lot of sun contact and the other for the rest..Whats the difference between Interior and Exterior Latex paint? Can they be mixed and used indoors?
I would not mix paints. Usually an exterior paint has a more durable sealer in it. I also would not use an exterior paint on the inside. Go buy some good quality paint suitable for the application.
When you look at what it takes to prep any surface for a good finish, the cost of the paint is negligible when compared to your time.Whats the difference between Interior and Exterior Latex paint? Can they be mixed and used indoors?
Exterior is a tougher based paint to with stand the outside elements. I don't know of any reason you could mix them and use inside. I would first check with the manufacturer just to be on the safe side.
I would not mix paints. Usually an exterior paint has a more durable sealer in it. I also would not use an exterior paint on the inside. Go buy some good quality paint suitable for the application.
When you look at what it takes to prep any surface for a good finish, the cost of the paint is negligible when compared to your time.Whats the difference between Interior and Exterior Latex paint? Can they be mixed and used indoors?
Exterior is a tougher based paint to with stand the outside elements. I don't know of any reason you could mix them and use inside. I would first check with the manufacturer just to be on the safe side.
Can I use Interior Alkyd Enamel paint as a primer for an Interior Acrylic Latex paint?
I want to paint over some ugly wallpaper in my sunroom and decided that I should probably prime with white. The wallpaper is light anyways, but then, so is my colour I've chosen to paint.
SO: to be on the safe side I'm going to paint the walls white first. I found a can of Interior Alkyd Enamel (semi-gloss finish) white paint. Can I paint this on first, then go over with my new can of (coloured) Interior Acrylic Latex (eggshell finish)???
I'm not looking to enter any decorating contests, so it doesn't need to be GORGEOUS! I just want it to look decent-to-nice.
ideas? opinions?Can I use Interior Alkyd Enamel paint as a primer for an Interior Acrylic Latex paint?
Hi. No you can't use the Alkyd enamel as a primer. It is an oil based paint %26amp; you cannot paint latex over it. The paint would just peel off. Primer isn't expensive and if you go to your local hardware store explain to them what you want to paint %26amp; they will get you the best one for your project. You can use oil over latex but not the other way around. You could also just put 2 or 3 coats of the paint you have over the wallpaper. If you ever plan on taking the wallpaper off I recommend you doing it before you paint as you will never get it off later. Good luckCan I use Interior Alkyd Enamel paint as a primer for an Interior Acrylic Latex paint?
Well, you can if you really want to, but the results will be disastrous.... Sorry...
Painting latex paint on top of enamel paint is a sure-fire recipe for disaster. Here's why: Enamel paint is oil-based, which means putting water (acryllic) paint on top, well, it won't stick. Oh, it'll stick while it's wet. But the minute the latex paint starts to dry, you'll see it peeling off, flaking off and chipping.
The best way to solve your problem is this:
Since you are painting over ugly wallpaper, you don't want the wallpaper coming up. Which means you can't prime with water paint. You'll need to use an oil-based primer. Enamel isn't a primer. Get yourself the cheapest oil-based primer and use that.
You can put latex paint on top of oil-based PRIMER. Primer is a mix of glue and paint. Your latex paint will stick to this and the results will be nice.
Good luck...
She's right use an oil based primer. Then you can use all kinds of paint on top.
SO: to be on the safe side I'm going to paint the walls white first. I found a can of Interior Alkyd Enamel (semi-gloss finish) white paint. Can I paint this on first, then go over with my new can of (coloured) Interior Acrylic Latex (eggshell finish)???
I'm not looking to enter any decorating contests, so it doesn't need to be GORGEOUS! I just want it to look decent-to-nice.
ideas? opinions?Can I use Interior Alkyd Enamel paint as a primer for an Interior Acrylic Latex paint?
Hi. No you can't use the Alkyd enamel as a primer. It is an oil based paint %26amp; you cannot paint latex over it. The paint would just peel off. Primer isn't expensive and if you go to your local hardware store explain to them what you want to paint %26amp; they will get you the best one for your project. You can use oil over latex but not the other way around. You could also just put 2 or 3 coats of the paint you have over the wallpaper. If you ever plan on taking the wallpaper off I recommend you doing it before you paint as you will never get it off later. Good luckCan I use Interior Alkyd Enamel paint as a primer for an Interior Acrylic Latex paint?
Well, you can if you really want to, but the results will be disastrous.... Sorry...
Painting latex paint on top of enamel paint is a sure-fire recipe for disaster. Here's why: Enamel paint is oil-based, which means putting water (acryllic) paint on top, well, it won't stick. Oh, it'll stick while it's wet. But the minute the latex paint starts to dry, you'll see it peeling off, flaking off and chipping.
The best way to solve your problem is this:
Since you are painting over ugly wallpaper, you don't want the wallpaper coming up. Which means you can't prime with water paint. You'll need to use an oil-based primer. Enamel isn't a primer. Get yourself the cheapest oil-based primer and use that.
You can put latex paint on top of oil-based PRIMER. Primer is a mix of glue and paint. Your latex paint will stick to this and the results will be nice.
Good luck...
She's right use an oil based primer. Then you can use all kinds of paint on top.
How do you remove dried semi-gloss latex paint from carpet?
once it is dried the only way we could remove it was by taking an old towel and putting it over it, then ironing the towel (while its over the paint) which remoistens the paint. Then you can use a strong carpet cleaner product to pull it out. This also works on wax except you wont need a carpet cleaning product, the wax will stick to the towel or the hot surface.How do you remove dried semi-gloss latex paint from carpet?
If it's plush carpet, and the paint is just on the top, try using scissors to cut off the paint Report Abuse
How do you remove dried semi-gloss latex paint from carpet?
There is this ';miracle'; product called ';GOO-GONE'; that you can find in the cleaning section of your local supermarket. If it doesn't get all of the paint off, when it's dry, try scraping it with your nail to get it off. I've just redone 3 rooms in my house and paint was flying everywhere... these are the things I've tried. Good Luck!!lenders
If it's plush carpet, and the paint is just on the top, try using scissors to cut off the paint Report Abuse
How do you remove dried semi-gloss latex paint from carpet?
There is this ';miracle'; product called ';GOO-GONE'; that you can find in the cleaning section of your local supermarket. If it doesn't get all of the paint off, when it's dry, try scraping it with your nail to get it off. I've just redone 3 rooms in my house and paint was flying everywhere... these are the things I've tried. Good Luck!!
Why are latex gloves permeable to the stench of formaldehyde?
Maybe they protect against infection, but why do my hands still stink after I take off the gloves?Why are latex gloves permeable to the stench of formaldehyde?
because the forhaldehyde molecule is smaller than the space between the latex filaments making the glove.
because the forhaldehyde molecule is smaller than the space between the latex filaments making the glove.
When casting into a plaster mold with latex, does the plaster have to be sealed first?
Will the latex stick into the mold or is a coating of sealer or wax required? Also, when painting the finished latex piece, do you have to seal the latex before or after?
Thank you for any information.When casting into a plaster mold with latex, does the plaster have to be sealed first?
My experience with plaster is that it almost always needs to be sealed except when using clay slip. I use Murphy's oil soap as suggested many places. But, while I work, with latex, I have not cast it into plaster as I paint it on modeling clay and you need to ask a latex supplier because thick latex takes forever to dry/set so you may need unsealed plaster to suck the water out of the liquid.
Edit
I went looking and this site http://www.fxwarehouse.info/Merchant2/me鈥?/a> which explains the process makes it clear the plaster mold must be unsealed.
Thank you for any information.When casting into a plaster mold with latex, does the plaster have to be sealed first?
My experience with plaster is that it almost always needs to be sealed except when using clay slip. I use Murphy's oil soap as suggested many places. But, while I work, with latex, I have not cast it into plaster as I paint it on modeling clay and you need to ask a latex supplier because thick latex takes forever to dry/set so you may need unsealed plaster to suck the water out of the liquid.
Edit
I went looking and this site http://www.fxwarehouse.info/Merchant2/me鈥?/a> which explains the process makes it clear the plaster mold must be unsealed.
How do you get small spots of latex paint off of vinyl floors?
And wood floors too?How do you get small spots of latex paint off of vinyl floors?
latex paint usually just scrapes right off of a vinyl or wooden floor. please do not use goo gone or any of that other stuff, it will remove your finish and any kind of a scarper or chisel will scratch it. if it is a latex primer / undercoater it may not so easily. try a rag or sponges with some hot water. if that doesn't work use some methyl hydrate [ gasline antifreeze ]How do you get small spots of latex paint off of vinyl floors?
Try ';GooGone'; and an old tee shirt. On wood floors you must be careful to rub lightly or you will damage the finish.
On wood you could try a small very sharp chisel. Just scrape the latex paint off and avoid marring the surface.
TSP available at hardware stores and a razor blade
They should just scrape off! My spots i scrape with my finger nail!
latex paint usually just scrapes right off of a vinyl or wooden floor. please do not use goo gone or any of that other stuff, it will remove your finish and any kind of a scarper or chisel will scratch it. if it is a latex primer / undercoater it may not so easily. try a rag or sponges with some hot water. if that doesn't work use some methyl hydrate [ gasline antifreeze ]How do you get small spots of latex paint off of vinyl floors?
Try ';GooGone'; and an old tee shirt. On wood floors you must be careful to rub lightly or you will damage the finish.
On wood you could try a small very sharp chisel. Just scrape the latex paint off and avoid marring the surface.
TSP available at hardware stores and a razor blade
They should just scrape off! My spots i scrape with my finger nail!
How can I tell if a wall and trim has been previously painted with latex or oil based paint ?
I need to possibly repaint in a house that is not mine, and will need to know what is there now so I can use the right paint to cover it, and to be able to do the proper prep work.How can I tell if a wall and trim has been previously painted with latex or oil based paint ?
Denatured alcohal, wipe your trim with it, if some comes off onto your rag it is latex, oil wont rub off like the latex will. keep in mind you can paint oil over latex but not latex over oil. The other guy has it backwards.How can I tell if a wall and trim has been previously painted with latex or oil based paint ?
Actually, you can use latex over oil providing you use the proper primer . I've also done re-paints where we have used 100% acrylic latex over oil and the adhesion is great .
Using masking tape, tape a very wet rag onto the wall or surface----wait an hour, and see if the paint under the rag has peeled or bubbled. If it has, it's probably latex paint, and should not be covered by oil-based paint.
Denatured alcohal, wipe your trim with it, if some comes off onto your rag it is latex, oil wont rub off like the latex will. keep in mind you can paint oil over latex but not latex over oil. The other guy has it backwards.How can I tell if a wall and trim has been previously painted with latex or oil based paint ?
Actually, you can use latex over oil providing you use the proper primer . I've also done re-paints where we have used 100% acrylic latex over oil and the adhesion is great .
Using masking tape, tape a very wet rag onto the wall or surface----wait an hour, and see if the paint under the rag has peeled or bubbled. If it has, it's probably latex paint, and should not be covered by oil-based paint.
For those who have purchased a natural latex bed online, how was your experience?
I'm thinking of purchasing a bed online from the Arizona Premium Mattress Company. I'm a little leary of buying something as major as a bed online. For those who have purchased a natural latex bed online (either dunlop or Talalay), what has your experience been like? Did you like the bed? Was it comfortable? Any other info you think might be notable would be appreciated. Thanks.For those who have purchased a natural latex bed online, how was your experience?
Before you purchase a bed online it would be beneficial to go to a local bed store and try a few latex beds. I would be leary to purchase ANY bed online without having first given a test run on a comparable model bed. I have had a latex bed for at least 10 years. I purchased it from a large mattress chain in my town. Even though I enjoy mine, while shopping with a family member for a mattress recently I was told they no longer carried latex mattresses. They claimed it was low customer appeal (even though they are quite popular in Europe) and high returns.
I remember getting a middle of the road king sized latex mattress about 10 years ago and it ran over $2,000. The top of the line ran over $4,000. Might seem high, but they carried mattresses over $6,000 at the store (and it seemed worth every penny, but not to my husband).
You might be better off going with a local mattress store that offers a 30 day return so if you not comfortable, at least you can exchange it for another mattress. Good Luck.
Before you purchase a bed online it would be beneficial to go to a local bed store and try a few latex beds. I would be leary to purchase ANY bed online without having first given a test run on a comparable model bed. I have had a latex bed for at least 10 years. I purchased it from a large mattress chain in my town. Even though I enjoy mine, while shopping with a family member for a mattress recently I was told they no longer carried latex mattresses. They claimed it was low customer appeal (even though they are quite popular in Europe) and high returns.
I remember getting a middle of the road king sized latex mattress about 10 years ago and it ran over $2,000. The top of the line ran over $4,000. Might seem high, but they carried mattresses over $6,000 at the store (and it seemed worth every penny, but not to my husband).
You might be better off going with a local mattress store that offers a 30 day return so if you not comfortable, at least you can exchange it for another mattress. Good Luck.
How can I remove a splattering of Latex paint from my clothes?
Latex paint is water soluble, but next time wear old clothes.How can I remove a splattering of Latex paint from my clothes?
Xylene disolves latex paint. You can buy it at your local paint store like Sherwin Williams. It's stinky stuff, but the stink will come out after you wash it in the machine.
You can try water first, but if it doesn't work, use the Xylene.How can I remove a splattering of Latex paint from my clothes?
Try alcohol, If that dint work try dissolve it a stain remover you can buy at wal-mart.
Here's a link - you pretty much have to get to the stain before it drys:
http://www.ehow.com/how_7263_remove-late鈥?/a>lenders
Xylene disolves latex paint. You can buy it at your local paint store like Sherwin Williams. It's stinky stuff, but the stink will come out after you wash it in the machine.
You can try water first, but if it doesn't work, use the Xylene.How can I remove a splattering of Latex paint from my clothes?
Try alcohol, If that dint work try dissolve it a stain remover you can buy at wal-mart.
Here's a link - you pretty much have to get to the stain before it drys:
http://www.ehow.com/how_7263_remove-late鈥?/a>
What is the best way to put snippits of programming code in a LaTeX document?
I am learning the statistical program R the same time I am learning LaTeX. I want to create LaTeX documents which have both a description of the code and snippets of example code in them. How is the best way to go about this?What is the best way to put snippits of programming code in a LaTeX document?
{\tt \small
\begin{verbatim}
int main(void)
{
fprintf(stdout, ';Hello, World!\n';);
return 0;
}
\end{verbatim}
}
{\tt \small
\begin{verbatim}
int main(void)
{
fprintf(stdout, ';Hello, World!\n';);
return 0;
}
\end{verbatim}
}
Semi-gloss paint for the interior - what is the difference between enamels and latex?
I first painted with latex paint and tried to put on 2nd coat with enamel I got bubbles why?Semi-gloss paint for the interior - what is the difference between enamels and latex?
Latex: water based, you can wash your brushes with water, clean off any mistakes quickly with water, etc.
Enamel: you need paint thinner for all clean up. It is based on some kind of oil, water won't touch it.
As far as I have experienced, both work very well, so I always use Latex (after it dries, no problem, even with strenuous water washing.Semi-gloss paint for the interior - what is the difference between enamels and latex?
the above answer is correct as you tried to paint oil over latex,let it dry ,sand out the bubbles,then spackle them if needed,and get a latex enamel and paint the topcoat with that ,you should used an oil based primer ,then you would have been fine as you can paint latex over oil, but not the opposite....painting contractor
Latex: water based, you can wash your brushes with water, clean off any mistakes quickly with water, etc.
Enamel: you need paint thinner for all clean up. It is based on some kind of oil, water won't touch it.
As far as I have experienced, both work very well, so I always use Latex (after it dries, no problem, even with strenuous water washing.Semi-gloss paint for the interior - what is the difference between enamels and latex?
the above answer is correct as you tried to paint oil over latex,let it dry ,sand out the bubbles,then spackle them if needed,and get a latex enamel and paint the topcoat with that ,you should used an oil based primer ,then you would have been fine as you can paint latex over oil, but not the opposite....painting contractor
How likely are condoms to have a hole? Can some sperm pass through latex?
I know condoms are not 100% safe, and of course nothing is, but I wanted to know these few things...
1) How common is it to have semen seep down and out the sides and through the bottom of the condom?
2) Is it possible for sperm to get through very small holes in latex that are naturally there? If they exist? (the small holes)
3) How common is it for stretching and such to create a hole for semen to get through.How likely are condoms to have a hole? Can some sperm pass through latex?
Unless they rip (if they do stop and replace) sperm will not go through the natural holes.
The sperm will not come up the side because you should have a little slack so it has a place to stay, and no guy ejaculates THAT much.
For maximum pertection why not get birth controle pills?How likely are condoms to have a hole? Can some sperm pass through latex?
It is a lot safer with than without , but as you say nothing is 100% guaranteed . If they have the kite mark then it is very unlikely that there would ever be a hole in one . If you are very rough then they have been known to split , but that is unusual . Semen should not seep out if you follow the instructions properly i.e after you have ejaculated hold on to the bottom of the condom and pull out of your partner
1) This should not happen if you have a snug condom with a reservoir tip.
2) If you buy a quality brand condom each condom is electronically tested for holes.
3) Again with a quality brand condom they are tested to withstand lots of stretching.
Just make sure you get a size that is snug but not to constrictive so you can't breath and it will be unlikely that you will have any of these problems.
Hope that helps
http://www.clearancecondoms.com
The day you are informed you will become a Papa long before you planned - you will know the answers to your questions. Then - you will be obligated, by law, to pay child support for EIGHTEEN YEARS!! Are you pretty handy at changing dirty diapers?
only a cut in the latex can let sperm out, not the natural holes in the substance. They are too small. And just roll them all the way up
If you buy the condoms at a store, it's pretty unlikely any of those to happen. Just relax a bit.
1) How common is it to have semen seep down and out the sides and through the bottom of the condom?
2) Is it possible for sperm to get through very small holes in latex that are naturally there? If they exist? (the small holes)
3) How common is it for stretching and such to create a hole for semen to get through.How likely are condoms to have a hole? Can some sperm pass through latex?
Unless they rip (if they do stop and replace) sperm will not go through the natural holes.
The sperm will not come up the side because you should have a little slack so it has a place to stay, and no guy ejaculates THAT much.
For maximum pertection why not get birth controle pills?How likely are condoms to have a hole? Can some sperm pass through latex?
It is a lot safer with than without , but as you say nothing is 100% guaranteed . If they have the kite mark then it is very unlikely that there would ever be a hole in one . If you are very rough then they have been known to split , but that is unusual . Semen should not seep out if you follow the instructions properly i.e after you have ejaculated hold on to the bottom of the condom and pull out of your partner
1) This should not happen if you have a snug condom with a reservoir tip.
2) If you buy a quality brand condom each condom is electronically tested for holes.
3) Again with a quality brand condom they are tested to withstand lots of stretching.
Just make sure you get a size that is snug but not to constrictive so you can't breath and it will be unlikely that you will have any of these problems.
Hope that helps
http://www.clearancecondoms.com
The day you are informed you will become a Papa long before you planned - you will know the answers to your questions. Then - you will be obligated, by law, to pay child support for EIGHTEEN YEARS!! Are you pretty handy at changing dirty diapers?
only a cut in the latex can let sperm out, not the natural holes in the substance. They are too small. And just roll them all the way up
If you buy the condoms at a store, it's pretty unlikely any of those to happen. Just relax a bit.
Is latex condom is also the reason or possibility for miscarriage?
I've gone from two miscarriages. One in last september %26amp; the second is in this April. Is there r some chances of miscarriage due to use of condom? Which type of condoms r best?Is latex condom is also the reason or possibility for miscarriage?
just stick to birth control....and a clean partner.Is latex condom is also the reason or possibility for miscarriage?
Ask you doctor.
Most likely no.
I have to ask myself why you're using a condom if you're pregnant... you're not going to get pregnant again while you're pregnant.
Hearsay, though it seems to be America's best method of education on the scientific, of of little value. Condom makers would have to put warnings on their boxes if it were established to be fact.
Your physician would be able to tell if it is an extremely rare possibility.
Firstly - sorry to hear about your losses...
Condoms CANNOT make you miscarry. When you are pregnant, the baby is very very well protected right from the start. neither the condom nor the lubricant will have any effect on the unborn baby. (though if you're pregnant, not sure why you are using contraception unless you have a number of partners, which I would seriously advise against if you are with-child!)
i've been told, but dont know how true this is, that the lubricant used in some condoms can cause your uterus to contract. I did read a medical study on it but it was not conclusive. Unfortunately have no idea which condom is best.... why use one if you are already pregnant?
i am really sorry for your losses. best wishes.
no.. i dont think condoms will be a factor for miscarriage.. if you are already pregnant you might as well not use condoms.. have yourself check.. go and see a doctor/ ob.. it is good for you and your health..
Perhaps our Good Lord is preventing you from having more on your plate than you can handle.
I hope that doesn't sound harsh. Our Savior works in mysterious ways.
talk to your doctor about that but if you have a history of miscarriage you should net be having sex early on.
trojon condoms. idk
just stick to birth control....and a clean partner.Is latex condom is also the reason or possibility for miscarriage?
Ask you doctor.
Most likely no.
I have to ask myself why you're using a condom if you're pregnant... you're not going to get pregnant again while you're pregnant.
Hearsay, though it seems to be America's best method of education on the scientific, of of little value. Condom makers would have to put warnings on their boxes if it were established to be fact.
Your physician would be able to tell if it is an extremely rare possibility.
Firstly - sorry to hear about your losses...
Condoms CANNOT make you miscarry. When you are pregnant, the baby is very very well protected right from the start. neither the condom nor the lubricant will have any effect on the unborn baby. (though if you're pregnant, not sure why you are using contraception unless you have a number of partners, which I would seriously advise against if you are with-child!)
i've been told, but dont know how true this is, that the lubricant used in some condoms can cause your uterus to contract. I did read a medical study on it but it was not conclusive. Unfortunately have no idea which condom is best.... why use one if you are already pregnant?
i am really sorry for your losses. best wishes.
no.. i dont think condoms will be a factor for miscarriage.. if you are already pregnant you might as well not use condoms.. have yourself check.. go and see a doctor/ ob.. it is good for you and your health..
Perhaps our Good Lord is preventing you from having more on your plate than you can handle.
I hope that doesn't sound harsh. Our Savior works in mysterious ways.
talk to your doctor about that but if you have a history of miscarriage you should net be having sex early on.
trojon condoms. idk
How do i know if my front door has been previously painted w/latex or oil base?
I am wanted to repaint my front door which is metal...and I have no idea if it was painted w/latex or oil base paint. How do i find this out?How do i know if my front door has been previously painted w/latex or oil base?
you can try dabbing a bit of finger-nail polish remover or other petroleum product on a tiny spot on the door. If it softens or smears, it's oil-based.
You can't just paint latex over oil, the paint, when dry, can be scraped off by using a finger nail. If the original paint is oil-based, simply get another oil-based paint to repaint it. Likewise, if it's latex, repaint with latex.How do i know if my front door has been previously painted w/latex or oil base?
It won't mater if you repaint with a latex or acrylic paint. In either case, you will have to lightly sand to remove any sheen and wipe down with a damp cloth. Let dry and paint with a latex exterior or interior, (whichever is the case), paint. Sheen is up to you. You will not need to use a primer in either situation.
you can try dabbing a bit of finger-nail polish remover or other petroleum product on a tiny spot on the door. If it softens or smears, it's oil-based.
You can't just paint latex over oil, the paint, when dry, can be scraped off by using a finger nail. If the original paint is oil-based, simply get another oil-based paint to repaint it. Likewise, if it's latex, repaint with latex.How do i know if my front door has been previously painted w/latex or oil base?
It won't mater if you repaint with a latex or acrylic paint. In either case, you will have to lightly sand to remove any sheen and wipe down with a damp cloth. Let dry and paint with a latex exterior or interior, (whichever is the case), paint. Sheen is up to you. You will not need to use a primer in either situation.
On Latex, how do you force writing typed below a figure appear below the figure in the output?
Like when the figure's so big that it has to appear on the next page, and the stuff written after it actually appears before it, on the previous page?On Latex, how do you force writing typed below a figure appear below the figure in the output?
The easiest way would be to add the [h] tag on the figure, so when you declare it you'd type something like:
\begin{figure}[h]
\centering
\includegraphics
\end{figure}
The [h] means ';HERE'; so your figure will appear between whatever you meant to go before and after it as it is in the .tex source.lenders
The easiest way would be to add the [h] tag on the figure, so when you declare it you'd type something like:
\begin{figure}[h]
\centering
\includegraphics
\end{figure}
The [h] means ';HERE'; so your figure will appear between whatever you meant to go before and after it as it is in the .tex source.
Rubber latex condoms that are lubricated work well?
Well imma use one for the first time and i dunno is it safe?Rubber latex condoms that are lubricated work well?
Trojan Condoms
Durex Condoms
Okamoto Condoms
Lifestyles Condoms
Beyond Seven Condoms
vivid condoms
Trustex Condoms
These are all good brands of condoms.
Yes, I do prefer lubricated they work well and are safe.Rubber latex condoms that are lubricated work well?
If used properly they work well.
Trojan Condoms
Durex Condoms
Okamoto Condoms
Lifestyles Condoms
Beyond Seven Condoms
vivid condoms
Trustex Condoms
These are all good brands of condoms.
Yes, I do prefer lubricated they work well and are safe.Rubber latex condoms that are lubricated work well?
If used properly they work well.
How to put graphics watermark in the middle of document in latex?
Actually I am preparing a4 size document in using IEEETran class file and I would like to put graphics watermark on every page so that it will cover the text but not the margin.How to put graphics watermark in the middle of document in latex?
http://www.watermarkz.net/
http://www.watermarkz.net/
I have a wooden inside the house chair. Is it painted with latex or oil?
How can I tell if it is painted with latex paint or oil paint if I want to repaint it. It is about 30 years old. Some of the paint has worn completely off such as at the end of the chair rockers. It is a fairly simple design but does need repainted.I have a wooden inside the house chair. Is it painted with latex or oil?
It is probably on oil base paint. And the alcohol test will tell you for sure. 30yrs ago that would be the late 1970's lead paints were NOT common. You can refinish with any pant you want, I would chose an oil based paint for furniture.I have a wooden inside the house chair. Is it painted with latex or oil?
If its 30 years old it is probably Oil paint. First thing you want to do is sand your chair real well all over. Then Use a coat of Kilz (Primer) on it, let it dry well and then you can use a latex paint on it, which is much easier to clean up after, and will also dry alot faster than reapplying an Oil base paint.
Rub it with alcohol. If the paint comes off it's latex. If not, oil. But be advised, because of it's age, that it's probably oil and most likely lead based. Your local hardware has a simple test kit for lead based paint.
well by the sounds of it , it more than likey be oil,
the best way to check is try and sand it off , if its latex it will look like white powder. dusty kinda stuff, if it oil it will be hard to sand , then re coat with primer, if you intend going back with oil, use a oil base primer, if not use a latex primer and if your really good you could spray the chair, and coat with poly , sounds great good luck
It is probably on oil base paint. And the alcohol test will tell you for sure. 30yrs ago that would be the late 1970's lead paints were NOT common. You can refinish with any pant you want, I would chose an oil based paint for furniture.I have a wooden inside the house chair. Is it painted with latex or oil?
If its 30 years old it is probably Oil paint. First thing you want to do is sand your chair real well all over. Then Use a coat of Kilz (Primer) on it, let it dry well and then you can use a latex paint on it, which is much easier to clean up after, and will also dry alot faster than reapplying an Oil base paint.
Rub it with alcohol. If the paint comes off it's latex. If not, oil. But be advised, because of it's age, that it's probably oil and most likely lead based. Your local hardware has a simple test kit for lead based paint.
well by the sounds of it , it more than likey be oil,
the best way to check is try and sand it off , if its latex it will look like white powder. dusty kinda stuff, if it oil it will be hard to sand , then re coat with primer, if you intend going back with oil, use a oil base primer, if not use a latex primer and if your really good you could spray the chair, and coat with poly , sounds great good luck
How do I clean up exterior latex paint from concrete sidewalk?
Yep, I spilled a bunch. I cleaned some with paper towels. However, the paint has dried...any ideas?How do I clean up exterior latex paint from concrete sidewalk?
rent a power hose it will be off in no time i do it every year to clean the drive way works a charmHow do I clean up exterior latex paint from concrete sidewalk?
Try a hair dryer or heat gun to warm it up and use a stiff nylon or bristle brush to brush up the softened paint.
You could also us acetone to dissolve it but the problem is that concrete is porous and any liquid you put on it will soak in, carrying the pigment with it.
The heat might work best because this will simply soften the paint, not reduce it to a liquid.
Since it's latex it should scrape up easily with a putty knife if it is dry if it is still wet soap and water (use laundry detergent it is non-phosphorous) will wash it safely away.
rent a power hose it will be off in no time i do it every year to clean the drive way works a charmHow do I clean up exterior latex paint from concrete sidewalk?
Try a hair dryer or heat gun to warm it up and use a stiff nylon or bristle brush to brush up the softened paint.
You could also us acetone to dissolve it but the problem is that concrete is porous and any liquid you put on it will soak in, carrying the pigment with it.
The heat might work best because this will simply soften the paint, not reduce it to a liquid.
Since it's latex it should scrape up easily with a putty knife if it is dry if it is still wet soap and water (use laundry detergent it is non-phosphorous) will wash it safely away.
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